When in South Dakota, it is a given that Mt. Rushmore, just about 27 miles from Rapid City in the west end of the state, should be a must-see on everyone's itinerary. The majestic carvings of four of our most influential presidents blasted and hammered out of a portion of the Black Hills is one of the most recognizable views in the entire world.
Gifted American sculptor Gutzon Borglum took an idea from South Dakota state historian Doane Robinson, and spent the last 14 years of his life bringing that dream to fruition, passing the torch to his son, Lincoln, who finished the monument as it stands today a year after Gutzon's death. Each head of George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, Abraham Lincoln and Teddy Roosevelt stands 60 feet in height at an elevation of more than a mile at 5,725 feet. The visitor center itself is situated below, and even that is more than a mile up in the mountains. Additional heads have been suggested (Susan B. Anthony at the time of construction, John F. Kennedy and Ronald Reagan in later years), but engineers in 1941 and opinions reinforced in later years have determined that the remainder of the mountain isn't stable enough to add any more. Probably a good thing.
Interesting little historical tidbit: The original design called for each president to be carved from the waist up, but topography and cost derailed that idea. You'll note in pictures that George Washington is the only president carved with more than just his head.
While establishing our South Dakota residency 5 years ago, we had checked into our hotel, had an early dinner, and had little to do that evening after a long drive to get to Rapid City. Just on a whim, we decided that we weren't going to be in South Dakota for just a single night and day without seeing something, so after dinner we drove the 27 miles or so to see one of America's national treasures.
Just by happenstance, we ended up at the monument at sundown, and were able to experience the end of day ceremony which entails a brief history of the monument, a summary of the presidential accomplishments which got their faces on the mountain, the playing of our national anthem, and the lighting of the monument just as the last strains of the Star Spangled Banner faded into the night. They asked if any active duty or veterans wanted to participate in the flag retirement ceremony at the end, but at the time I just wanted to be with Barbara to experience the end of day together.
Fast-forward 5 years, and it's time to renew our South Dakota residency and driver's licenses, both of which have to be done in person due to our being full-time RV-ers. Instead of a single night in South Dakota and a quick turnaround, we decide to spend three days in the area to recover from the 2-day, 24-hour drive from Georgia to Rapid City and back again.
That gives us three whole nights to revisit Mt. Rushmore, and this time I intend to volunteer to participate in the flag retirement ceremony at the end of the day.
Night 1: Our memories, backed up by some pictures taken 5 years previous, was that the ceremony started at sundown, so we found ourselves in the visitor center at approximately 7:30 waiting for sundown to occur at 8:08 pm. The appointed time rolls around, and no hint of a ceremony. It's getting darker and colder, and we're both beginning to wonder if the US Parks Service no longer performs the end of day ritual any more. Now understand, we had packed clothes for expected 90 degree weather based on forecasts. Well, as usual, the forecasts had changed on the way to South Dakota and we're now a mile up, it's dark, and it's also windy, and we don't even have the first layer of a jacket with us. Because . . . forecasts! 8:45 rolls around, and we decide to leave, still not sure when the ceremony was scheduled to begin. After all, we've got two more nights to get this done, right?
Night 2: Back at the visitor's center, this time a bit later. Find out the the ceremony is scheduled to begin at 9:00 and end at 9:30. We are at least wearing long sleeves this evening. Sunset is now 8:07, but in the distance, there is the ominous rumble of thunder. A quick check of our weather app shows a couple of storm cells working their way heading RIGHT TOWARDS the monument area. Now, if you've never experienced a Great Plains thunderstorm, you're in for a treat if you love bad weather (as I do) and a miserable time if you hate bad weather (as Barbara does). So, just when is this bad weather expected to arrive?
You guessed it: right between 8:45-9:00. We hang in for a bit in case it has plans to dissipate, but Mother Nature has decided to NOT cooperate this evening. About 8:40 rain spatters begin. Another check of the radar app and we know tonight is not going to be the night. Ceremony canceled. We do, however, get to experience the full fury of a Great Plains thunderstorm on our drive down the mountain in our Jeep, watching bolt lightning of astonishing power with little attenuation due to the higher altitude. Alas, no joy, but one more night remains.
Night 3: This was it. Last chance. It's back to Georgia the next day. We arrive just before sunset, but this time, we're outfitted in some new fall-weight jackets and hoods to keep us relatively warm, which we had picked up at the local Cabela's earlier that day. No storms on radar.
As we sat along the display of every state flag lining the pathway to the overlook and monument, Barbara and I engaged in one of our favorite pastimes – people watching. I mentioned in my last post that we were in town during the Sturgis Motorcycle Rally, and a lot of bikers visited Mt. Rushmore each of the 3 nights we were there. One biker this evening walked by us with five live parakeets perched in each pocket of his denim vest and colors, while a cockatoo sat on his shoulder. I kid you not. We assume he had a cage or two strapped to his bike in order to get the birds to and from his destination, but who knows?
Finally, 8:55 rolls around, and an announcement is made that the end of day ceremony would begin shortly in the auditorium below the overlook, so Barbara and I headed about halfway down to some bench seats. The Park Ranger gave a very nice and accurate history of the monument and the reasons why each president was enshrined on the mountain. She then asked for military or veteran spectators to be recognized on stage, and between 25 and 30 of us headed further down.
Now it was time to ask for volunteers to retire the flag for the day. This entails the Park Ranger lowering the flag, and a detail of six of us to fold the flag into the traditional “tricorn” to present back to her. I was honored to lead the detail, and my fellow veterans and I did a credible job, given many of us hadn't done anything like that in decades.
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| The park ranger and I with the fruit our our detail's labor |
They say that “third time is the charm”, and in our case that certainly rang true. I left the venue both honored and humbled to be part of something few people get to experience, and Barbara and I could now head back to Georgia satisfied that everything we needed and wanted to accomplish in our short visit was done.
If you're going to be in the Rapid City area, a visit to Mt. Rushmore is a must. And the TIME to go is at sunset, even if you have to wait a bit for the ceremony to start.
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